When Chef Vineet Bhatia received his first
Michelin star in 2001 for his restaurant Zaika in London the title of being the
first Indian chef to receive the coveted Michelin star was not just a personal
feat for him, instead it made him the proud medium who put Indian cuisine on
the world map. Subsequently, in 2009 he got another Michelin star for his
restaurant in Geneva and joined the exclusive league of very few chefs to hold
Michelin stars in more than one country. Here are some excerpts from our quick tête–à–tête with the chef who is often hailed as
father of the evolving modern Indian cuisine.
1. What does a Michelin star mean to you?
Vineet Bhatia
[VB]: As a chef I don’t cook for stars and awards,
but for the mere satisfaction of my guests. But the Michelin star is very
important not because I was awarded one as chef-proprietor but because it
brought recognition for the rich Indian culinary culture and heritage. In 2001
receiving the star for an Indian restaurant was like breaking the glass ceiling
because at that time it was awarded predominantly to French and other European
restaurants; though now of course various world cuisines feature on the Guide. It
was an honour for me to present Indian cuisine at par with the finest in the
world. Even now being part of the Michelin Guide is very important since it continues
to enhance awareness of the cuisine that we serve.
2. What is the cornerstone of modern Indian cuisine?
VB: I
firmly believe that one first eats with their eyes. I serve Indian food but my
dishes don’t look like typical Indian fare. Yet, when you close your eyes you
can taste India on your palate because it is important for me to uphold the
respect for regional Indian cuisines. I believe in offering clarity of flavours
thus avoid dousing my dishes with too many spices and masalas and always use
top quality ingredients.
3. You run many restaurants across the world. How do you vary the menus at,
say, Rasoi in London and Ziya at The Oberoi, Mumbai?
VB: Rasoi,
which was rechristened Vineet Bhatia London a few weeks ago, now features only
a tasting menu comprising 15 small dishes. Ziya offers different dishes in
both, a la carte or the set seven-course Gourmand menu, available in vegetarian
and non-vegetarian options {details of the new Gourmand menu are
presented below}.
Across my restaurants in London,
India, Geneva or Mauritius I present tailor-made dishes with a respect for
local culture. With all the religious sentiments in India even those who
partake of non-vegetarian fare may observe fasts or abstain from eating meats
on certain days of the week. In keeping with that you will find many vegetarian
options at Ziya. Whereas in Geneva there are fewer vegetarian choices but more
meats including duck, pigeon, venison, foie gras and so on.
4. What is the quirkiest thing you've ever eaten? Would you put it on the
menu at Ziya at The Oberoi, Mumbai?
VB: You
really want to know [laughs]? The
quirkiest thing I’ve ever eaten is a bull’s penis in Venezuela! It is the worst thing I have ever eaten;
extremely chewy - almost like chewing gum. The people who served it to me didn’t
tell me what it was, and called it the ‘one-eyed monster’. Not only Ziya, I
will never serve it at any of my restaurants.
5. Have the pressures of social media impacted the way you present your
dishes?
VB: Not
at all! As I said earlier, you first eat with your eyes so our dishes have
always been presented aesthetically. Plus, we have been doing TV shows since
2010/11 when social media was not as active as it is today. Hence, the plating
of our dishes has always been important to us.
But having said that, flavours always take priority over presentation. At
times, just to make a dish look attractive some chefs compromise on the taste.
When people do dramatic plating just for the camera it may not always translate
to proper food.
6. You have a very appealing style of presenting your dishes. What is your
mantra for plating. How much time would you spend on the plating of an
exotic dish?
VB: Plating
has to be kept simple, with three or maximum four hand movements done in under
one minute. If one spends more time on plating the food can get cold and Indian
food simply does not taste good when it gets cold. We like to keep our plates
clean, but to present them beautifully three or four chefs work simultaneously
to plate one dish. There is a certain method to the madness. For instance, to
plate lamb chops with cous cous one chef will serve the cous cous, another will
place the lamb chop on it, then the jus is poured by a third chef and finally
the dish is garnished by the fourth chef.
7. Will we see a restaurant with your name in Delhi anytime soon?
VB: In 2001 I had a restaurant in Delhi – at The Manor New Delhi {which
now houses the award winning Indian Accent}. Now plans are in the pipeline to
have a restaurant in Delhi but nothing has been signed yet. I studied in Delhi
{at the Oberoi School of Hotel Management} and have a lot of family in the city
and would certainly love to have a restaurant in the capital.
 |
| Gourmand Menu at Ziya Clockwise from Top Left: Tandoori Jhinga; Tandoori Lamb chop and Kabuli Raan;Pistachio Phirni Brûlée, Gulan Jamun Carpaccio and Kapi and Cardamom Kulfi; Kadhai Murgh Chettinad. |
Chef Vineet Bhatia was the chef de
cuisine The Oberoi, Mumbai before moving on to London and creating history in
the world of Indian cuisine. In 2010 he came back to re-open the sea-facing
restaurant Kandahar when it transformed into its current avatar, Ziya. Bhatia
turns the menu around every season, adding new dishes while retaining some new
ones. The current Gourmand menu offers a set seven-course starting with an
amuse bouche. Non-vegetarians start with a succulent tandoori jhinga (prawns); chilli garlic
lobster smoked aubergine pulao, burani raita; kadhai murg Chettinad before
breaking with a pineapple shrikhand kokum granita. This pretty palate cleanser
is topped with Rose wine and offers a refreshing mix of flavours and is
followed by the tandoori lamb chop with Kabuli raan. The dessert comprising pistachio
phirnee brûlée, gulab jamun carpaccio and kapi cardamom kulfi is the perfect
combination of the most-loved Indian desserts with a little surprise hidden in
the centre of the bowl. The menu offers a taste of regional Indian dishes
presented presented in Chef Vineet’s inimitable modern style, where each
ingredient is a star in its own right.
Details:
Ziya, The
Oberoi, Mumbai, Nariman Point, Mumbai-400021, India
(oberoihotels.com)
Lunch
Timings: 12:30 p.m. to 2:15 p.m.
Dinner
Timings: 7:00 p.m. to 11:30 p.m.
Ph:
022 66326240
This article first appeared on travelandleisureindia.in on November 28, 2016.
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