If there is one seasonal menu that I look forward to, it is
at Olive Bar & Kitchen. Chef Dhruv Oberoi is as much an artist as he is a genius in the kitchen.
While he does gastronomic justice to the fabulous produce that he works with,
one can also envision him sketching out the gorgeous plating of each dish while
he guides an enthusiastic team that is busy executing every element on a plate
to perfection.
When he says that this menu is all about minimalism I find
it a little hard to believe since every dish has a range of elements that take
classic combinations several notches up, making it ‘gastro art’! “Although we
have stuck to classic combinations we have played around with textures and
presented simple ingredients in novel ways,” he explains as he introduces the
newest dishes on the menu. Burrata and tomato for instance has taken the form
of Burrata Tatin where creamy burrata is served on a crispy pastry layered with
pesto and comes with a delicious tomato jam on the side. The combination may be
traditional but the execution is very modern. The heirloom tomato and
strawberry salad too tastes as refreshing as it looks. But this is just the
beginning.
![]() |
Appetisers Clockwise from top left: Burrata Tatin; Heirloom Tomato and Strawberry Salad; Mushroom Duxelles; Pastrami and Oxtail. |
The appetisers are as gourmet as it gets! The roulade of
milky mushrooms in Mushroom Duxelles is served with an almost addictive split
truffle emulsion. The accompanying white asparagus not only balances the
flavour of the dish but its crunchy bite adds a wonderful texture as well. Chef
Dhruv shares that in this winter menu he has also used different cuts of meat.
The Ham Hock is a good cut of pork that is sherry glazed and served with
Hokkaido scallops and vanilla fennel marmalade. My companion enjoyed the crispy
oxtail with spice crusted smoked tenderloin pastrami. Here the accompaniments
are mustard caviar and pickled cream. Although everything sounds very fancy,
trust me, it is simply delicious.
![]() |
Top: Pulled Pork Casoncelli. Bottom L-R: Arroz Nero; Grains and Mushroom. |
Even though the plating is beautiful, inspired by a walk in
the forest, it is the taste of the food that one ultimately gushes about. When
a hearty bowl of millets and Arborio rice, cooked in truffle paste garnished
with parmesan, mascarpone, and a selection of winter mushrooms is as comforting
as the squid ink risotto with Spanish bomba rice and caramelized onion broth
you know that chef has chosen to serve food that is appropriate for the season.
And what can spell winter better than a Glazed lamb Ossobucco Cassoulet, cross
cut foreshank of lamb slow braised with winter beans and lentils! The choice is
extensive. From the candy wrapper shaped casoncelli pasta stuffed with pulled
pork, with sage parmesan cream, charred citrus, roasted beets and toasted
almonds to the Chilean sea bass glazed with fermented corn and honey, garnished
with borage leaves, house matured black garlic, and kataifi parsnip there is
literally something for everyone on this menu. And of course, the usual
favourites including the freshly baked breads and woodfired pizzas continue to
be hot-sellers.
![]() |
Top: Chilean Sea Bass. Bottom L-R: Hokkaido Scallop with Glazed Ham Hock; Lamb Ossobucco. |
Regulars would also know that amongst the desserts, the
tiramisu of every new season is awaited with much anticipation. While the
summer menu had it presented as an icecream bar, now version 8.0 comes with a
cocoa dusted cannoli that looks like a cigar and tiramisu itself is in the
shape of an ashtray. But if you’re willing to stray away from your love of
coffee, try A Perfect Mess – it is an homage to the English Eton Mess with thin
strips of meringue that looks like egg shells, a soft-centred vanilla
blancmange along with varying textures of macerated strawberries.
![]() |
A Perfect Mess |
If the food that I’ve described so far is not enough of a
temptation, go there for the vibe. Whether you sit indoor or the white-pebbled
courtyard, Olive really is an all-season restaurant. And yes, it is also perfect
whether you want a romantic evening out or lunch with the kids, celebrating an
occasion or simply looking for good food. If I could choose I would kick-start
my weekend a li’l early – with the live band on Thursday evenings.
Details:
Olive Bar
& Kitchen Address, One Style Mile,
Haveli no. 6-8, Kalkadass Marg, Mehrauli, New Delhi – 110030.
Timings: Lunch 12pm - 3.30pm; Dinner 7.30pm - 12pm
Meal for
two: Lunch 1500++; Dinner:
2200++
Phone : 011-29574444 / 3;
9810235472.
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