Let’s face it: we’re all done with ‘fusion cuisine’ and
tasteless, senseless garnishes. Even when people eat out, most want real food. Now,
celebrated chefs across the world are talking about going to their roots,
preserving traditional recipes and evoking nostalgia through food. But they
also need to tread the fine line between homely fare yet something that is
fancy enough to eat at an upmarket restaurant. And that’s why we welcome
Comorin with open arms!
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The spacious and airy interior and exterior of Comorin. |
As the 30th restaurant in the basket of Old World Hospitality
(that includes the highly acclaimed Indian Accent in New Delhi, New York and
London) Comorin serves Indian food that is sure to take many down various
memory lanes. Chef Dhiraj Dargan, who
has been with the group since he was a management trainee, is the executive
chef under the inimitable expertise of
Chef Manish Mehrotra, who is the consulting chef for this restaurant. They have created simple dishes like khichdi
and bread pakora but served them with unusual combinations. While the former is
made with sweet corn (corn porridge is a traditional breakfast dish from the
streets of Indore) and enlivened with crunchy sem ke beej along with various
chutneys that balance each other out, the latter is zinged up with bacon and
green chillies.
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Top: Baby Back Ribs Bottom L-R: Sweet Corn Khichdi with Sem Ke Beej; Haleem with Butter Toast |
Comorin is named after Cape Comorin, the erstwhile name of Kanyakumari,
the tip of the Indian peninsula. The menu is thus designed to take you on a
journey through India with elements from various states, while heartwarming
comfort lies at the core of each dish. Dry moong dal comes with a crunch of dal
moth and freshness of edamame, Andhra gongura chicken is served with crispy
murukku, delicious haleem is accompanied by simple butter toast and green
chilli prawns are India’s answer to wasabi prawns and served with puffed black
rice. Being an all-day restaurant the two-page menu offers adequate choice of
dishes appropriate for different times of the day and is split between small,
large and extra-large portions. If you’re a pork lover, do not miss the baby
back ribs. Doused in chilli Old Monk glaze the tender meat just melts off the
bone.
The drinks on offer have been given equal thought and loving treatment.
The bar features craft
cocktails, including an innovative sous vide infusion counter, a seasonal
cocktail on tap, and a unique selection of house-made beverages and
sodas. Like the food, classic cocktails have been given a refreshing twist.
Negroni, for instance, is made with house infused gin, khus vermouth and
Campari. Whisky Sour has taken the form of Walnut Sour, with walnut infused
bourbon, pineapple, lime and homemade mole bitters. Bartenders are happy to
showcase their skills at the sous vide counter or churning the Ramos and Roses’
Gin Fizz in the fancy cocktail shaker for six consecutive minutes. Then there’s
the Mai Tai that is served on tap as it is infused with nitrogen to give it the
right amount of fizz without altering the flavour by introducing carbonated
soda. While many drinks have complex flavours, they are presented in a
minimalist style, and most are even stripped of any garnishes in order to keep
the focus on the perfect flavour notes and balance of the cocktail.
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The Retail Section has a huge variety from cold brews and bottled kimchi to bar accessories and serve ware. |
While you will traverse the menu at your own pace we would urge you to
finish with two things: malai cheeni toast, an old-fashioned go-to dessert in
many north-Indian homes, except that here it is served on crisp yet
melt-in-the-mouth brioche, and coffee liqueur that hits the beautiful notes of
dark roast coffee and vanilla beans. Finally, you can take some of the goodness
back from the eclectic market space that is priced well and stocks special
syrups like basil flower or Swiss chard, kimchi, sauerkraut, kombucha and cold
brew shots, roasted coffee, among many other things. I personally loved the
glassware, cool bar accessories, some ceramics and platters that have been
sourced from unique vendors.
Pro Tip:
All the
cocktails are made with special House Liquors. There is a selection of seven
house liquors that include Light and Dark Khus Vermouth, Walnut Bourbon, Vanilla
Cognac, vodka based Coffee as well as Fennel Liqueur and Velvet Falernum. We
recommend the tasting portions of each of these that are priced at Rs 100 for
15ml each.
Details:
Comorin, 101, 1
Floor, Plaza Level, Two Horizon, Golf Course Road, Gurugram. Telephone: 0124-
4984224
www.comorin.in
Timings: 12 Noon- 1
AM.
Average price per person: Lunch
Rs. 700 | Dinner: Rs. 1,000 plus taxes (without alcoholic beverages).
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