The
Capital is abuzz with the spectacular turnaround of The Lodhi Hotel ever since
GM Vikramaditya Singh took charge. While he has certainly upped the level of
hospitality, the hotel has also been accredited with the Leading Hotels of the
World (making it the only hotel in India to be part of this coveted cluster)
under his leadership. He recently brought in Michelin-starred Chef Adriano
Baldassarre to open Perbacco, a fine Italian restaurant at the hotel.
Having
earned his first Michelin star in 2007, this is not Chef Adriano’s first stint
in India; he had spent two years in the country while at Vetro, The Oberoi
Mumbai. After that, he returned to Italy and in 2016 he opened Tordomatto in
the heart of Rome. Although his roots lie in traditional Italian cooking, he
prefers to call his cuisine “creative traditional” because, in his words, he
cannot claim credit for the truly authentic recipes. Going back to his
childhood, chef recalls the first dish that he ever cooked was a breaded veal
cutlet. Having keenly observed his mother and grandmother in the kitchen since
his early years, he decided on taking up this profession when he was in his
late teens.
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| Perbacco: The vibrant interiors. Bottom: The food is as fancy as an asparagus burette tart and as comforting as a mushroom truffle risotto. |
The
menu that he presents celebrates the finest ingredients, in very clean,
uncomplicated dishes and a modern style of plating. While the amuse bouche with
three spheres – tomato, olive and panzanella – is not exactly revolutionary any
more, the very first course sets the tone for the meal that follows. The burrata and
tart with green asparagus makes for quite a spectacular start. Scallops carpione is done to
perfection, and served with a zucchini mash. The quality of the scallops
required for this quick pickling method needs to be excellent and it is fabulous.
Pastas include a pillowy ravioli encasing a classic spinach-ricotta filling and
saffron risotto, the traditional risotto alla Milanese, that is oomphed up with
duck ragout, taking it to a gourmet level, and the very comforting and delicious mushroom and
truffle risotto.
Amongst the mains, the roasted Chilean sea bass comes with a deliciously crisp skin
and served on a bed of caramelized onions, and the lamb tenderloin is a stellar dish - the kitchen staff
executes a ‘medium-well’ beautifully. The jus is just enough to heighten the
flavour of the meat instead of drowning it as it is done in many other
restaurants.
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| Clockwise from Top Left: Linguine with lobster; Chilean Sea Bass; Lamb Chops; Eggplant Parmigiana. |
Although
Perbacco comes under the category of fine dining, complete with a wine cellar
and an exclusive private dining room, this is not necessarily a tag that Chef
Adriano goes after. “Food is either good, or not,” he says simply. So, amidst
all the spectacular dishes on the menu, Chef Adriano suggests a humble Eggplant
Parmigiana if you want a taste of some comfort food. Also his own favourite,
this dish encompasses the ‘holy trinity’ according to him: Taste, Love and
Passion. “For it to be perfect it must have consistency of taste and made with
oodles of love, showcasing the chef’s passion,” he states. As for our
recommendation, this time instead of just one standout dish, we have a list of
three: lamb chops done to perfection, linguine with lobster and tortellini
stuffed with lamb and the most flavourful jus.
This wonderful meal is rounded off with a hazelnut semi-freddo
served with fresh cranberries and a classic tiramisu that is set and served in a jar, along
with an edible spoon that is made entirely of chocolate.
For drinks, there's a well-stocked wine cellar by La Cave and
the beautifully done Safari Lounge next door does some fantastic classics. While
the stunning wildlife photographs by Latika Nath and plush interiors at the
Lounge are reminiscent of a luxury wildlife lodge in Africa, the cocktails are
on point too. The Safari Martini is the signature drink, which is a martini
with the refreshing twist of added mint. And you're guaranteed to get one of
the best Negronis in town here.
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| The Safari Lounge Do keep time to have a drink in this plush bar. |
And last but not the least, we just love the vibe at Perbacco.
It is vibrant and the mood is enlivened with lovely Italian music, including
Italian renditions of popular English songs like Stand By Me. That, together
with the food, transports you to Italy momentarily.
Details:
Perbacco, The Lodhi, Lodhi Road, New
Delhi-110003.
Ph: 011-43633333
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